Project 47: Episode 1 — Kagoshima Prefecture Motorcycle Journey
Kagoshima sits at the southern edge of Japan’s main islands — a landscape shaped by volcanoes, wild coastlines, hidden shrines, and roads that seem built for motorcycles.
This ride marks the beginning of Project 47, a solo motorcycle journey across every prefecture in Japan.
The plan was simple: start near Miyazaki, follow the coast through Kagoshima, explore what looked interesting on the map, and see where the road led.
Six days later, it turned into one of the most memorable rides I’ve ever taken.
Below is the journey day by day across Kagoshima Prefecture.
Day 1 — Entering Kagoshima & Finding the Coast
The first thing that hits you riding into Kagoshima is the wind.
Then the views.
Almost immediately the road begins to reveal what southern Japan is all about — ocean cliffs, small fishing villages, quiet countryside, and roads that twist just enough to keep things interesting.
Kagoshima is the southernmost prefecture on Japan’s main islands, and it feels different from the rest of the country. The climate is warmer, the terrain more volcanic, and the coastline feels wild and open.
I followed the coastal road south, occasionally pulling over whenever something interesting appeared — a tiny village cemetery, a narrow mountain road, or a sign pointing toward a waterfall hidden in the hills.
Those signs are dangerous when you’re traveling by motorcycle.
You always follow them.
Before long I was standing in front of a beautiful waterfall tucked into the forest — the kind of place you would never find unless you were wandering Japan’s backroads.
The rest of the afternoon disappeared into a rhythm that would repeat throughout the trip:
Ride.
Stop for something unexpected.
Ride again.
By sunset, I found a quiet campsite right next to the water.
No people. Just the ocean, the wind, and the bike parked outside the tent.
Not a bad way to start a journey across Japan.
Day 2 — Coastal Roads & Sakurajima Volcano
Morning came with strong wind but clear skies.
The southern Kagoshima coastline is one of the most relaxing rides in Japan. On one side you have open ocean. On the other, steep mountains rising straight out of the land.
It’s the kind of road where you don’t rush.
A few hours later I stopped for a simple but perfect rider’s lunch — Japanese curry.
Then I saw it.
Sakurajima.
Rising out of Kagoshima Bay, Sakurajima is one of Japan’s most active volcanoes, and on this day it was erupting again — ash drifting into the sky above the city.
The eruption forced me to slow down and wait a while before riding closer.
No problem.
Motorcycle travel rewards patience.
Later that afternoon I stumbled across Sugawara Shrine, a small island shrine sitting quietly along the coastal road.
Just one more reminder that in Japan, you never really know what you’ll find around the next corner.
Before sunset I reached another incredible stop: Ryumon Falls.
The falls are wide, powerful, and surprisingly hidden considering how impressive they are.
By the time I finished exploring, daylight was fading.
It was time to find camp again.
Day 3 — Kagoshima City & The Chiran Peace Museum
Cold morning.
Motorcycle camping in winter will do that.
After packing the tent I headed toward Kagoshima City, though I’ll admit — city riding has never been my favorite.
The traffic, the noise, the constant stop-and-go.
Still, some places are worth visiting.
Looking across Kagoshima Bay toward Sakurajima in the morning light was incredible. The volcano still released ash into the sky, but from this side of the bay it looked almost peaceful.
After navigating through the city, I turned south toward a place I had wanted to visit for years:
The Chiran Peace Museum.
Built on the site of a former World War II airfield, the museum commemorates the 1,036 kamikaze pilots who departed from here during the final stages of the Pacific War.
Inside are letters, photographs, and recovered aircraft.
Standing there, looking at the faces of those young men, it’s impossible not to think about what they must have felt before their final flight.
It’s a powerful and sobering stop.
Back on the road, the ride continued south through endless green tea fields toward one of Kagoshima’s most iconic sights.
Day 4 — Lake Ikeda & Mount Kaimondake
Eventually Kaimondake appeared on the horizon.
Often called the “Fuji of Satsuma,” this perfectly shaped volcanic mountain dominates the landscape of southern Kagoshima.
At its base sits Lake Ikeda, a calm volcanic lake surrounded by quiet countryside.
Near the lake I discovered something unexpected — golden torii gates overlooking the water.
As the clouds began to break, the sunset lighting up the lake made the scene unforgettable.
Then I noticed a sign.
Camping.
Plans changed immediately.
I set up the tent overlooking the lake, watching the sun disappear behind Kaimondake.
Sometimes the best campsites are the ones you never planned.
Day 5 — Samurai History, Ramen, and a Crash
The next day began with wet gear and heavy clouds.
Rain threatened most of the day, so the ride turned into more of a relaxed cruise along Kagoshima’s southern coast.
Later I reached a samurai residence district where traditional homes from the Edo period still stand.
Walking through the houses offers a glimpse of what life was like centuries ago in rural Japan — wooden construction, sliding doors, squat toilets, and open hearth cooking areas.
From there the ride continued to Imuta Pond, a volcanic crater lake surrounded by bald cypress trees growing straight out of the water.
By late afternoon hunger took over.
Anyone who rides long enough knows the feeling: suddenly you’re not just hungry — you’re obsessed with finding a specific food.
For me that day it was ramen.
Eventually I found a small shop serving miso chashu ramen, and it was perfect.
Unfortunately the day ended with a reminder that motorcycle travel always requires respect.
Fatigue caught up with me while navigating small rural roads, and I dropped the bike at low speed.
No real damage.
Just a bruised ego and a lesson learned.
Day 6 — Nagashima Island, Soba, and Sogi Falls
The final day started with brutal crosswinds — gusting close to 60 km/h.
Fully loaded with camping gear, the bike felt like it was floating across the road.
Still, the ride to Nagashima Island was spectacular.
The coastline there is quiet and beautiful, and I even stopped at a lighthouse overlooking the ocean.
There was also one unexpected discovery:
A public toilet with perhaps the best view in Japan.
Only in Japan.
After leaving the island I met another rider at a gas station who recommended a hidden mountain soba restaurant.
The ride up was fantastic.
The restaurant itself was even better — traditional soba, incredible scenery, and even a small art gallery on site.
From there the journey slowly began winding toward home.
But not before one last surprise.
Sogi Falls.
Often called the “Niagara of Japan,” the wide powerful waterfall feels completely different from anything else in the country.
My final stop was Mizunokuchi Shrine, a shrine hidden inside a massive cave near the border between Kagoshima and Miyazaki.
Standing there inside the cave, looking out at the forest and torii gates, felt like the perfect place to end the ride.
Six days.
Hundreds of kilometers.
Countless unexpected moments.
And this was only the first prefecture.